Snana Yatra

Over the past few weeks, Mayapur has been abuzz with stories of Snana Yatra. Some people were planning on what they were going to take to bathe Him with, others lamenting because they weren't going to be here, and most telling me wonderful stories of the past years.

Two days before Snana, it was dvadasi, and I had gone to Rajapur to visit Jagannath and take Him His sweet-rice. Lord Jagannath in Rajapur is like a magnet for me, I can't seem to keep away. I love the simplicity of His temple, the peacefulness and calm that envelopes the area - its such a contrast to the constant busyness of Mayapur. When you take darshan, you really do feel its just you and Jagannath, and he's just talking to you only. The festive pandal was already up when I went to Rajapur that day, as well as lengths of brightly coloured garlands hung expertly around the temple... a sure sign something special was just around the corner.

I'm not sure if it was the wisest decision, but I decided to take the bike to Rajapur for Snana, despite being a 30-40minute ride away. It had been drizzling all morning, and by the time I collected Ganga water, picked up a clay pot to bathe Jagannatha with, and squeezed past the rickshaws, motorbikes and scooters, cars, flat-beds, buses, bicycles and people, my feet were covered from heel to toe and up to my ankle in mud. Somehow though, I didn't seem to care, and all I wanted was to see and bathe Lord Jagannath.

When I entered the gates of the Jagannatha Mandir, it was as if I was entering a completely different planet, like I was in the spiritual world itself. The kirtan was roaring and every person I saw had a smile the size of Jagannath Himself. It wasn't hard to tell why. Past the Indians sitting on plastic chairs, the mothers with sleeping children on their laps, the kirtan party and past the garland-decorated barrier, sat Lord Jaganntha, Baladeva and Subhadra, dressed in simple yellow and white cloth, Their huge smiles inviting all Their devotees to help bathe Them.

Photographs by Shalini Radha

There was a line of people filing behind Lord Jagannath, pouring all different liquids onto Them, and from all sorts of containers. And I mean all sorts. It seemed almost inappropriate, to be pouring milk from a plastic Sprite bottle, or coconut juice from metal tiffin bowl. It was as if some people had just grabbed the first thing they could find, just to get a chance to bathe the Lord. Such is the mercy of Lord Jagannath, that He was accepting of everyone and their service to Him, no matter what odd container they were using to serve Him with.

I didn't dare to look at the queue to get up behind the deities, I knew I could be waiting in there for at least an hour or so. Instead I just stood and watched for awhile, partly mesmerised with seeing Lord Jagannath so close to me, drenched in Ganga water, coconut juice, milk, water, and partly preparing myself to stand in the muddy line to get my 2 seconds of bathing time.

A little to the left of the deities, there was a cluster of people hovering around a bamboo gate. After some time, I saw the barrier being lifted, and an elderly lady ushered through. She cut the long queue and was up bathing Lord Jagannath within minutes. Even though I wasn't elderly and in fact had no reason to receive the special treatment of cutting the line, that little cluster of people looked like somewhere I wanted to be. Ishaan on one hip, and my clay pot of Ganga water on the other, I made my way to the cluster, and pushed my way through the middle of everyone until I found Nila and a few other devotees I knew. I was becoming a real Bengali - no qualms as to who I push to the side, as long as I get my time with the Lord!

After a few minutes, the guard at the barrier nodded to Nila and Shivratri, indicating they could go through. Without a thought I pushed in behind them, and ducked under the barrier. The guard began to yell at me, he was only supposed to let two people in.... and in turn Nila and I yelled back to him, making up fast excuses as to why I should be let in as well. He protested some more, but by that time I was already on my way towards Jagannath, my clay pot ready to pour. Reflecting back, maybe I should've held my tongue and waited in line just like everyone else. Jagannath would've still been there waiting for me.

First Baladeva, then Subhadra...and finally we poured the remaining Ganga water on Jagannath's head. I leaned down and touched His lotus feet, then we were quickly ushered off.

Biking home, I had a smile on my face the size of Lord Jagannatha.